As you know, I am lucky enough to live in a beautiful and peaceful agrotourism north of Ibiza. For me, this is the most authentic area of the island, where you can still find places where tourism, or rather, the lack of it, has allowed things to remain the same as 50 years ago.
One of the most popular attractions of Ibiza, for its peculiarity, its beauty and its mysticism is the beach of Benirras.
A beautiful beach of pebbles in an enclosed bay sheltered by hills and trails, and the ever present Mediterranean Sea. And right in the middle of the bay, magically stands a huge elongated stone that sees and controls everything, popularly known as the Finger of God.
This rock is the undisputed star of Benirrás, the centre of attention and the target of the thousands of photos that it receives every evening when the sun goes down. Along with the silhouette of dozens of boats, sailboats and motorboats … nobody wants to miss this amazing spectacle.
A unique spectacle in Ibiza with its own soundtrack. Dozens of drums accompany the sunset all afternoon as well as the visitors dancing to their tune, or just contemplating the colourful multicultural environment.
It is an ever-increasing characteristic experience of the island, and lately it has become one of the biggest attractions for tourists. And as so often happens when something becomes so popular… it loses some of its essence and magic.
The beach is crowded with tourists and residents, and especially street vendors make a packet on the island. Gazpacho, mojitos, sandwiches, “tortillas”, beer, pies, fruits, ‘spicy’ pastries … and all kinds of crafts.
So I prefer to enjoy the beauty and essence of Benirrás in the quieter months.
Almost six years ago a terrible fire that lasted 12 days took the life, the green and the luxuriance of its pine forests. And really scared the hundreds of tourists who were there, with the sea as their only exit.
Benirrás is still recovering and remains full of strength, as if it had shaved its hair in the fight for conserving nature. And with the memory of the power of fire and the extreme care we must have to prevent a disaster like that from happening again.
In spite of that I’ll take the good, the mysterious power of this beach and of the rock that governs it.
If I had to sum it up in two words, for me Benirrás is strength and fire. The strength of nature and music, the sound of drums and the unflagging dancing of those present.
And the fire of the sun each sunset and of the memory of that fire. It is acknowledging the pass of time, an opportunity to appreciate and celebrate each day as if it were the last.